Drip Edge

I just downloaded the 2009 International Residential Code and it does not say anything about drip edge. I can't believe that is the case!! State Farm will not pay for drip on this project and I have never had this problem before. How should I approach this adjuster to make sure they pay for drip. Its in Wentzville, MO where code follows the 2009 International Residential Code. Any ideas are appreciated.

And EVERYBODY wants to blame the roofer. every leak, every warped board, broken conduit, fart fan clogged, dry vent, duct work with holes in it. Its always the roofer. Jaylee; I thought the IRC was cedeing to the UBC. I'm not sure what the UBC calls for either other than new contruction does not require it and reroofs do. Does that include lay overs or tear offs I'm not sure. When you find out, fill us in. Wasn't much help.

I think so OS. I answered him in my first two words. The rest were just a bt of history I thought he might be interested in. That's why it's not in the code books. That's why the proper technique is to run the shongles 1-1/4" past the rake. Outer nail goes into the rake board and drip edge is completely unnecessary. :)

It's unnecessary. Back in the day, carpenters set the first plank 2" to 2-1/4" past the rafter so it sat on the fascia reinforceing it's tender edge and made a drip edge too by overhanging the gutter an inch. :)

Nowadays, carpenters are saving tons of time and material by setting plywood an inch back from the rafter end so the fascia can't reinforce the tender edge of the plywood. Now, any nails there can bust the edges off, and there is nowhere to nail the drip edge anyway. :woohoo: